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What to check before you buy the house

A general home inspection tells you the furnace exists and turns on. It does not tell you the heat exchanger’s condition, what the ductwork can carry, or whether the thing was ever the right size. Pick the house and this lists what to ask for. No price, no email field.

What to ask for

Built before 1950

Nothing in this house was designed around a heating system as we would fit one now. Whatever is there arrived later, probably more than once, and it went where it could rather than where it should.

  • Ask what the ductwork actually is and where it runs. Retrofitted duct in an old house is usually undersized, particularly the return.
  • Ask about the envelope. Insulation and air sealing decide more about comfort here than the appliance does, and they are the cheaper thing to improve.
  • If there is original pipe or boiler insulation, have it identified by somebody qualified before anyone disturbs it. That is a specialist question, not a heating one.
  • Expect the cooling question to be separate. If there are no usable ducts, adding cooling is a project rather than a connection.
Built 1950 to 1980

The era when central heating was designed in from the start, which is good, and when the ductwork went wherever was cheapest, which is the part you inherit.

  • Ask whether the ductwork is original. In most of these houses it is, and it has been carrying its second or third appliance.
  • Ask for static pressure to be measured. Original ducts and modern equipment are frequently a poor match, and this is the one number that proves it.
  • Check the return sizing. Undersized returns are the single most common inherited fault in this age of house.
  • Look at where the ducts run. Anything in a crawlspace or an unheated attic is costing money every day.
Built 1980 to 2005

Flexible duct in attics became normal, and the equipment is usually on its second generation. The question is whether anybody looked at the distribution when the equipment changed.

  • Ask when the equipment was replaced and whether the ducts were touched. Usually the answer is yes and no, in that order.
  • Have the attic runs looked at for crushing against trusses, sagging between straps and torn outer jackets. These faults are visible and they are common.
  • Ask for the service records. Twenty-five years of a system’s life should have left some paperwork.
  • Check the flue arrangement if the appliance was upgraded — a high-efficiency appliance venting into an old chimney is a red flag.
Built 2005 onwards

Tighter and better built, and the equipment may still be original. The questions move from condition to configuration.

  • Ask whether the system was ever commissioned and for the figures. New does not mean set up.
  • Ask about the warranty and whether it transfers. Many do, some require registration, and it is worth establishing before you own it rather than after.
  • Ask about ventilation. A tight house does not shed moisture and stale air by accident, and whether anything was fitted to do it deliberately is worth knowing.
  • Check for condensation history at windows and in closets on outside walls. In a tight house that is a ventilation signal.
Gas, warm air
  • Insist on a heat exchanger inspection as a specific item. It is the one fault that ends an appliance outright, and a general inspection will not cover it properly.
  • Ask for the data plate — model, serial and input rating. It tells you the real age regardless of how clean the cabinet looks.
  • Ask for static pressure and the filter size, and check you can physically reach the filter.
  • Check the flue type: a metal pipe into a chimney and two plastic pipes through a wall are different appliances with different lifespans.
Gas boiler, radiators or baseboard
  • Ask about circulators, zone valves and the expansion vessel. That is where boiler faults actually live, and all three are serviceable items.
  • Ask whether the system holds pressure. A system that needs topping up regularly is losing water somewhere, and finding out where is a real job.
  • Walk the house and feel every emitter. A cold radiator is information and it is free to collect.
  • Price the cooling separately. There are no ducts, so air conditioning is a new system rather than an addition.
Oil
  • Establish where the tank is before anything else — basement, outside, or buried. The three are different purchases.
  • Ask for burner service records. Oil appliances need a genuine annual service and the paperwork tells you whether they got one.
  • Ask about the chimney or vent and when it was last inspected. On older oil appliances the chimney is frequently older than the burner.
  • Ask what the annual consumption has been. Deliveries are recorded, and the figure is a better guide to the house than anything on the listing.
Heat pump or electric
  • Ask what the back-up heat is and how it is staged. Electric resistance back-up running more than it should is silent and expensive.
  • Ask to see winter electricity bills, not summer ones. That is where a badly configured heat pump shows up.
  • Check the outdoor unit’s mounting. In this climate it should be well up off the ground with clear space beneath it to drain.
  • Ask about the electrical supply and panel if you are thinking of changing anything later.
Two things to ask in every house. First, for the service records — not a claim that it was serviced, the paperwork. Second, for the data plate photographed, because a repainted cabinet tells you nothing and a serial number tells you the year.
On oil, the tank is the purchase-critical item. A buried tank is an environmental and insurance question that surfaces at exactly this point in a transaction, and establishing its condition is specialist work rather than a heating contractor’s. Ask now, in writing, and speak to your insurer before you commit. This is the single most expensive thing on this page.
An old house with warm air is a retrofit. The duct system was added to a building that was not designed for it, which usually means undersized runs and a return that was never big enough. Ask specifically for static pressure to be measured, because it is the difference between a system that can be improved and one that will disappoint whatever is fitted.
A heat pump in an older house is worth a closer look. Heat pumps move a larger volume of air than a furnace does, so ductwork sized for an older gas system frequently cannot carry it — and the envelope of an older house raises the load the pump has to meet. It can be an excellent arrangement; it just needs to have been thought about, and the figures will tell you whether it was.
On a newer house, ask about the warranty in writing. Terms vary, some require the original registration and some require documented maintenance, and a transfer that everybody assumed would happen is a bad thing to discover later. Ask for the commissioning figures at the same time.

This is a list of questions to ask, not a survey and not advice on the purchase. It cannot see the house, and it produces no price. A proper pre-purchase check on the heating is a separate visit from a general home inspection, and it is worth what it costs in a house you are about to own for twenty years.

Red flags

Six things that should slow you down

None of these is a reason not to buy a house. All of them are a reason to get a number before you agree one.

01

“It was just serviced” with no paperwork

A service produces a record. No record generally means no service, or a service by somebody who did not measure anything.

02

A clean cabinet and an old data plate

Cabinets get painted. Serial numbers do not. Photograph the plate and look the age up yourself.

03

A high-efficiency appliance on an old chimney

Modern condensing appliances vent differently. An upgrade that kept the old flue arrangement is worth asking about specifically.

04

A condensate line through an unheated space

In this climate that freezes, and the appliance stops in January. It is a routing problem and it is cheap to fix before you move in.

05

An outdoor unit sitting on the ground

Rochester winters bury it and defrost water freezes under it. It wants raising, and raising it is far easier before the landscaping goes back.

06

Nobody can say why a room is cold

If the seller, the agent and the inspector all shrug, assume nobody has measured it. That is not a disaster; it is a negotiation.

Why we publish this

Because we are the people who get called three months after the move, when the first cold snap arrives and the answer turns out to have been visible in October. A pre-purchase check is a small fraction of what the surprise costs, and almost nobody knows it is a thing you can book.

It is also the most honest piece of marketing available to us. Everything on this page is checkable by somebody else, and half of it costs us nothing but a phone call.